A modern solution to fashion bias – Ziwei Qu

My thinking processing:

How can…? [intervention]…change!

WHAT WHY HOW WHAT IF

Escapism

Change: Men to be open about their troubles.

How can…I help young men to be more able to share their problems, rather than retreating into escapism.

Interventions: Wearing different clothes, etc.

RESEARCHERS HAVE IDENTIFIED A SERIES OF PSYCHOLOGICAL CHANGES THAT OCCUR WHEN WE WEAR CERTAIN CLOTHES

We all take a little extra effort to look nice for special occasions. But for the most, people remain conflicted between wanting to dress up and feeling guilty about taking the time to focus on clothes. Science now suggests that how we dress may just be the difference between giving ourselves the extra edge in our professional and personal lives. And yes, that applies to men too.

We hear sayings like “dress for the job you want; not the job you have” and “look good, feel good” all the time. Most people don’t really believe in them, but we try to match our attire to the occasion nevertheless. The good news is that research into the impact of clothes on behavior now suggests that there may actually be a grain of truth in these sayings. Science says that the clothes we wear affect our behavior, attitudes, personality, mood, confidence, and even the way we interact with others. This is “Enclothed Cognition“.

The term Enclothed Cognition is used to describe the effect that our clothes seem to have on various psychological processes like emotions, self evaluations, attitudes, and interpersonal interactions. Clothes affect our behavior and our moods because of the symbolic meaning that we (as a society) ascribe to different types of attire.

We consider some clothes to be powerful, some to be fun, and so on. We even evaluate people whom we have just met based on their clothes and the occasion.  It would seem that we also evaluate ourselves and our roles based on what we are wearing at a particular time; because of the way they make you feel. This means that the experience of wearing something subtly affects our attitudes and our choice of behavior.

Suited up = power up

There’s a reason tailored jackets are associated with being ‘dressed for success’. It seems that wearing formal office wear and structured clothes puts us in the right frame of mind to conduct business. Wearing power clothing makes us more feel more confident [possibly because we call it power clothing]; and even increases hormones needed for displaying dominance. This in turn helps us become better negotiators and abstract thinkers.

Casual Friday

While a good suit works wonders for our performance in the boardroom; wearing formal wear isn’t a great idea when we want to socialize. Studies have found that people tend to be less open and find it more difficult to relax when they wear formal clothes.

On the other hand,  a casual and relaxed dress code at work helps us become more friendly and creative. These findings bolster the idea of wearing business casuals on a Friday; since colleagues are most likely to take out time to socialize and let their hair down on the last work day of the week. I mean, who wants to hang out with the squares in their suits?

The psychology of gym clothes

Not motivated enough to exercise daily? Wear some of your gym clothes, or at least carry them with you. Wearing gym clothes / active wear makes it more likely that we will actually exercise. This may happen because wearing our workout gear acts as a reminder to make healthy choices. And for many, having the clothes on eliminates the step of ‘dressing for exercise’; and reduces one of our excuses.

Uniform thinking

Any kind of clothing that is associated with a specific role activates all our knowledge and expectations about how people from that profession should behave. For example, wearing uniforms and coats can make people more conscious of their duties and encourage them to pay more attention to their jobs. Just wearing a lab-coat during an experiment encourages people to pay more attention (since lab-coats represent serious, attentive professions like scientists and doctors) and make fewer mistakes.
And this is not just for the adults. School children in Kenya attended school more and performed better when they were given uniforms to wear – perhaps because the uniforms made school work that much more real and valuable to these children and their parents.

Luxury good and politics

Most of us think of our political affiliations as rock solid. But not only can clothes affect our perceived social status, they can even change our political views and attitudes. In one study women who were asked to carry a Prada handbag identified more with conservative, capitalist values than a control group who were given a non-luxury handbag.

These ladies were also less likely to help others in general; but were more likely to help if it improved their status. The researchers believe that this could be because people unconsciously attempt to behave in ways that are congruent their look. So essentially, if we dress for the role, we will start to live it.

Uppers and downers

Feeling low / cranky / upset / sad? While our mental state most definitely affects the way we dress; the reverse may also hold true. What we wear could affect how we cope days when we are depressed, anxious and stressed. Research says the quickest little fix for a bad day is to wear brightly colored clothes. Cheerful colors work as a mini pick-me-up; and thus boosting our mood and energy. Also, we associate bright colors with happiness, sunny days, and carefree times (like the summer vacations when we were kids).

On the other hand, we associate deep and dull colors with low energy, being tired and a more somber mood. So the next time you feel like donning a dark hoodie to hide a bad day; reach out for the bright pullover instead! It may just make you feel a little happier.

Hidden secrets

Amazingly even our underwear affects the way we feel about ourselves. Hidden clothes like our socks and underwear can exert a powerful influence on our self-perception and confidence levels. Wearing something we perceive as sexy can make us feel more self assured, more powerful and more confident.

To improve self image, even copying someone’s style may be a good idea. Research shows that when we emulate the dress code of people we consider smart and powerful, we feel infused with these qualities as well. That’s certainly an argument for owning clothes that bring out the best in us.

Mind What You Wear: It Can Change Your Life

It is easy to think of clothing as mere covering, or the means by which we project our image to other people. But studies have shown that clothes really can change how we think and feel.

When I recently asked students to put on a Superman t-shirt it wasn’t because I didn’t like what they were wearing. There was a scientific reason behind my request. I wanted to know if wearing heroic clothing would change the students’ thinking. I had become interested in something called ‘enclothed cognition’, the idea that what we wear can change our minds. An idea that was borne out in the tests the students completed. 

When wearing a Superman t-shirt the students rated themselves as more likeable and superior to other students. When asked to estimate how much they could physically lift, those in a Superman t-shirt thought they were stronger than students in a plain t-shirt, or in their own clothing. This demonstrated that our inner mental processes and perceptions can be primed by our clothing, as we internalise the symbolic meaning of our outer layers.

Clothes change how we think and feel

It is easy to think of clothing as mere covering, or the means by which we project our image to other people. But studies have shown that clothes really can change how we think and feel. If you have ever been a hospital patient forced to wear a shapeless, pale, garment like a baby’s gown that gapes at the back, you may remember how it made you feel docile, trusting and helpless. Or you may have felt the anonymity that comes from slipping into a uniform, or the power of wearing a sharp suit.

Research has confirmed that these clothes actually change our thinking. In the 1990’s Barbara Fredrickson found that women who were given a maths test performed worse when wearing a swimsuit than in a sweater. Researchers from the US found wearing a white coat improved people’s mental agility, priming their brain to take on the mental capacities they associated with being a doctor.

Our clothes reflect our mood – and can change it

What we wear has cognitive, social and emotional consequences. My previous research discovered a link between women’s mood states and their clothing choices. The women were more likely to wear jeans when feeling low or depressed. More recently I found another clear link between mood and clothing, discovering that when women are stressed their world narrows down resulting in them wearing less of their wardrobe, neglecting 90% of it. This led me to speculate whether we can change our mood when we wear something different and to come up with the following list of ‘happy’ clothes likely to induce a more positive mood in the wearer:

1. A favourite well-cut dress in a beautiful fabric will lift the mood. A flared peplum shape, for example, creates the ideal hip-to-waist ratio that is feminising and comfortable.

2. A piece of statement (bold) jewellery that marks you out as an individual will make you feel special like wearing a badge of honour or medal.

3. Colours that are found in nature (sky blue, leaf green, sunshine yellow) link us to the natural world, protecting us from negative emotions and giving that extra burst of energy.

4. Playful patterns such as polka dots or abstract prints can resurrect the carefree feelings we experienced in childhood.

5. Mismatched items, e.g. a leather jacket over a floaty dress, formal with informal, vintage with new, give us a buzz because the brain enjoys novelty and surprise.

6. Loose clothing and flat shoes allow free unrestricted movement, associated with adventure and travel. Tight clothes and high heels do the opposite.

7. Vintage accessories, like bags or belts, are often better quality than we could buy today and, just like old movies, reconnect us with stories from the past giving a warm inner glow of reassurance.

8. Natural fibres like linen, cotton, silk and wool, nurture more than man-made fabrics by capitalising on our affinity with nature.

9. Flowered prints, lacy tops and floaty fabrics are associated with spring, making us feel ultra-feminine and glowing with health.

10. Any trend that harmonises with who you really are and is in tune with your inner self will boost your mood. Your smile is your best accessory, so if you smile whenever you wear an item of clothing, you’ve probably found the right piece for you.

I believe we can feel happier and more confident in the right clothes. And now science confirms that not only are we what we wear, we can actually become what we wear.

– Does Fashion change people’s interest? or behavior of psychology

WHAT:

Nowadays, the monotony and stress of everyday life often leaves one feeling very empty. This is especially true with men, as it has been found that typical masculine coping mechanisms tend to rely less on personal interaction than women, and as such, escapism is much more common for men (Chang et al., 2018).This escapism, however, is not always considered healthy, as it can lead to the degradation of social life and a general detachment from reality (Barari, 2013).

WHY:

(Identity)

Since science fiction almost exclusively looks towards the future, the issue of performativity is of high consideration. Some schools of thought argue that the high performance of garments is more of a focus for males who not only associate actual performance and functionality with fashion garments, but also value the superficial performativity of functionality of them (Leeker et al., 2017). In these theories of performativity, there is a difference in social expectations of either gender, with men being expected to be more productive in physically stressful environments whereas women are expected to do this to a lesser extent (Entwistle and Mears, 2012). This further extends to clothing and fashion, where men’s clothes are commonly more visibly functional and utilitarian, being focused more around utility whereas women’s clothes are commonly made to look better (Entwistle and Mears, 2012).This ties into the identity of being a man, or in modernity’s higher consideration of gender fluidity, identities which hold masculinity as an important or defining factor (Baccolini, 2014). As such, in addition to the fan base of science fiction media being more male than female, the primarily functional nature of science fiction aesthetics appeals considerably more to males than females, positioning them as a prime target for marketing efforts of science fiction fashion.

Beyond the identity of gender, science fiction fashion also has a highly recognisable aesthetic which many would associate with futuristic or performant characteristics (Entwistle and Mears, 2012). This means that consumers can make externally clear chosen facets of their own identity through science fiction fashion apparel (Powell and Gilbert, 2009). Some characteristics of these can align well with those from outfits in films or be unique enough to spark interest and allow the wearer to express their own forward-thinking perspectives and identity in wearing this fashion (Page, 2016). This process allows consumers to develop their own overall sense of identity and furthermore, a feeling of belonging or comfortability with other consumers making similar identity expressions (Page, 2016).

In modern psychology, this is classified as “avoidant personality”. It can lead to the degeneration of social life, further pessimism in life, and a disconnect from reality. So Some people might use anime or video games enhance their personal lives. It would be beneficial to offer alternatives, such as providing opportunities to bring positive associations from “better” worlds into reality (Gibbons and Kupferman, 2019).

HOW:

(Methodology)

This study takes a social constructivist approach, using qualitative data for analysis (Creswell and Clark, 2017). This has been suggested as the best approach to understand science fiction aesthetics and how they can be incorporated into men’s fashion since it allows a deeper inquiry into the topic. Qualitative methods provide researchers with a high richness and depth of information gathered, though they cannot be generalised across a population and are primarily used to gain a baseline understanding for future quantitative data collection, which is why quantitative methods are also used (Creswell and Clark, 2017).

In this research, image analysis will be performed on recent fashion designs that have been inspired by science fiction films. An image analysis looks at characteristics of images and compares them either to other images or extant research to develop a better understanding of the processes which may have led to these characteristics (Liu et al., 2014). This analysis will draw on concepts of escapism, performance, and identity that are the key theories in this essay. These images of real fashion garments and concept art or photographs will be sourced from the internet. This analysis will be done on current fashion and media, and of images from similar sources in more recent years to provide a contemporary understanding.

Theories –Escapism

The popularity of science fiction is both due to consumer hedonism and the freedom of plot and worldbuilding available to writers in believable settings (Winchester III, 2018). Many science fiction plots do not feel far-fetched to believe as a possible future for humanity, and this thus offers a prime opportunity for viewers to escape the monotony or stresses of their daily lives (Chang et al., 2018). Escapism using various forms of media such as video games, films or television is incredibly common and it allows positive associations to be formed with certain worlds for people who may not necessarily be happy with aspects of reality (Gibbons and Kupferman, 2019). This is especially true with men, as it has been found that commonly masculine coping mechanisms tend to rely less on personal interaction than women, and as such escapism is much more common for men (Chang et al., 2018). This escapism however is not always considered healthy, as if misdirected it can lead to degradation of social life, further pessimism in life, and general detachment from reality (Barari, 2013). This can commonly happen in situations where issues in a person’s life may appear insurmountable or difficult to process, leading to the seeking of a better mental state by focusing on (usually unreal) positive ideas. As such, scholars argue that it would be beneficial to offer alternatives to more total escapism such as providing opportunities to bring positive associations from “better” worlds into reality (Gibbons and Kupferman, 2019). This can be done through event hosting, online communities, positive identity encouragement, or more physical approaches such as science fiction styled fashion (Chang et al., 2018). The externality of such fashion items to an extent would allow this comfort of escapism to move with garment owners and out into reality, providing it with benefits to the consumer beyond just entertainment (Shane-Nichols et al., 2016).

Such science fiction aesthetics are usually developed in the media to give an easily identifiable character impression within a plot. This can commonly be done by drawing parallels with historical events or groups, assisting with automatic identification, but also certain aesthetic themes have been developed for various types of character within the genre itself (Kim and Kim, 2015). Often aspects of this are as simple as dark character design equating to antagonists in the plot, and it offers the chance for viewers to identify with certain character designs which they associate with certain traits (Díaz-Soloaga, 2016). This means that science fiction fashion items developed with certain aesthetics in mind can bring with them a number of positive connotations and thus hedonic feelings which further make such garments desirable (Edwards, 2016). There is a wide variety of aesthetics to choose from in science fiction fashion due to its hypothetical nature of designs, which is important since it offers men a new avenue for expressing self-identity (Kim and Kim, 2015).

My first point is to further normalize men’s awareness of fashion. It has been found that men are more receptive to novel technological products, evidenced by the increasing norm for men to have gadget-oriented hobbies and interests. So expressed through the structure and style of clothing, making the escapist comfort come into reality and providing consumers with benefits beyond entertainment.

My second proposal on how to help them become better is to focus on changing their mindset. Figure out what’s bother ing them — work, family, relationships — and figure out how to solve it. Activities that reward the individual, such as meditation and working on hobbies, can help shift an individual’s mindset from negative to positive.

The third method to improve this issue is through psychotherapy. Anxiety, ADHD, depression are all psycho logical afflictions that can severely impact a person’s quality of life. Therefore, such people may be in need of therapy — or even serious medication.

WHAT IF:

Image Analysis

In this image analysis, three images have been selected from three different science fiction film to be analysed. In Figure 6, it is evident that for many rebels in Star Wars, a primitive look was chosen, with inspiration from more remote areas of the Middle East and historically plain clothes. With the design this retains a form of elegance however, since functionality or movement is not restricted by the layers of fabric of the core outfit, though as mentioned before this also ties into the narrative surrounding the garments. Such characters are purposely designed with simple clothing to enforce their position as the underdog, and align with their overall better respect and closeness with nature (Zhamanov et al., 2017). Aspects of this are common in much of the media and not only limited to science fiction, although the nature of science fiction allows it to create new looks from old inspiration.

Kanye West’s line-up of clothing has taken a similar aesthetic, focusing on a plain look which appeals to much of modernity’s desires for overt minimalism and sustainability-oriented visuals. The natural colouring of the garments further separates it from traditional fashion nowadays, making its plainness visually louder than many designs which offer a higher level of intricacy. From this, it allows statements to be made about one’s identity, which in this case could be argued to be oriented largely around the idea of sustainability and minimalism (Powell and Gilbert, 2009; Page, 2016).

In the face of urban pressures, masculinity should be embraced as an important or determining factor of identity, allowing men to express their avant-garde views and identities while wearing fashion. This process enables consumers to develop their own sense of overall identity and further develop a sense of belonging or comfort.

In my opinion, whether a behavior is escapist or not depends on its purpose or attitude, and whether it is negative or positive. If done occasionally after work or studying in order to release pressure, I think it can be beneficial and not escapist. If entertainment is only used to escape from the frustrations and anxieties of reality, then I would classify such behavior as escapist. But to say that any entertainment is an escape from life is, I think, a bit arbitrary. When people are tired and in need of relaxation, moderate entertainment is both acceptable and beneficial. However, long-term addiction to games is, indeed, a kind of escape from reality. Daily procrastination can lead to the gradual degradation of society, which is not sustainable in the long term.

Bibliography:
Barari, A., (2013). Reasons Why Men Envy Women. Bold Sky. [online] available at:

Chang, S. M., Hsieh, G. M., & Lin, S. S. (2018). The mediation effects of gaming motives between game involvement and problematic Internet use: Escapism, advancement, and socializing. Computers & Education, 122, 43-53.

Gibbons, A., & Kupferman, D. W. (2019). Flow my tears, the teacher said: Science fiction as method. In Innovations in Narrative and Metaphor (pp. 167-181). Springer, Singapore.

Proposed reading list:

https://slate.com/culture/2019/06/black-mirror-season-5-striking-vipers.html

Winchester III, W. W. (2018). Afrofuturism, inclusion, and the design imagination. interactions, 25(2), 41-45.

Shane-Nichols, A., McCrohan, D., & Chung, T. L. (2016). NFL Fanatics Communication of Identity through Apparel and Merchandise: A Gender Comparison. Iowa State University ITAA Annual Conference. [online] available at: https:// lib.dr.iastate.edu/itaa_proceedings/ 2016/presentations/71/

Kim, S. S., & Kim, Y. S. (2015, June). Androgyny in deconstructive fashion. In 2015 Global Fashion Management Conference at Florence. 610-611.

Díaz-Soloaga, P. (2016). Fashion films as a new communication format to build fashion brands. University of Navarra. [online] available at: https://dadun.unav.edu/ handle/ 10171/41897

Edwards, T. (2016). Men in the Mirror: Men’s Fashion, Masculinity, and Consumer Society. Bloomsbury Publishing.

Figure 6:Kanye West’s Yeezy sustainability-oriented aesthetics (Fashionisto, 2017). Daisy Ridley and Mark Hamill (Vanity Fair, 2017).